A touch of Italy

Carpaccio with marinated mushrooms, rocket and Parmesan shavings, and balsamic glaze.

Carpaccio with marinated mushrooms, rocket and Parmesan shavings, and balsamic glaze.

Published Apr 24, 2021

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Spiga

Where: 465 Innes Road, Morningside

Open: Monday to Saturday, 11am till late

WhatsApp: 067 138 1115

SPIGA has always been a go-to place when you want something quick and easy. You know exactly what you’re getting ‒ good basic Italian food, without any frills ‒ served promptly without fuss, and in an atmosphere that’s always vibey. And nothing here will break the bank.

Even in pandemic times, the restaurant is well lived in. You’re bound to see someone you know. On a chilly Tuesday evening, it was full. And better still, you can now book through WhatsApp on the number above. They found me a table on the overflow verandah and a carafe of pinot grigio ‒ the much underrated Italian white wine cultivar ‒ landed promptly.

Vegetarian antipasto board, with olive tapenade and gorgonzola sauce.

Starters are simple ‒ minestrone, meatballs in tomato sauce, chicken livers. Prawns, mussels and calamari are all available in a sauce of your choice. On a recent visit, we shared a very good vegetarian antipasto (R165) with olives, artichokes, mushrooms, buffalo mozzarella and an excellent gorgonzola dip. There is also a meat version for those who want the salami and Parma ham. Both come with a crisp fresh focaccia to mop it all up.

I tried their carpaccio with rocket, marinated mushrooms, padano shavings and balsamic glaze (R125), which was another massive portion that could be shared. It was a great dish of quality fillet. And while I thought the addition of mushrooms was an odd touch, these worked really well. As did the squeeze of lemon and drizzle of olive oil.

Mains is a simple selection of pastas and pizzas. Their pasta alla Shaik still features on the menu ‒ a simple creation of olive oil, garlic, chilli, plum tomato and sweet basil ‒ as is their linguine di casa, or house pasta, of garlic chilli prawns and wine.

On our previous supper club visit, my friend went for her favourite, the spaghetti al cartoccio (R250), a selection of seafood ‒ mussels, prawns, calamari and fish, cooked in garlic, chilli, wine and tomato in a foil parcel. When you open it at the table, all the aromas are intoxicating. Then I tried the pasta alla Sergio, with pickled chillies, garlic and extra virgin olive oil, topped with crispy pancetta and peas (R135), which was enjoyable although those chillies were super hot. The linguine puttanesca (R120), with olives, anchovies and capers, is another favourite here. All the better for being the true rustic dish it’s meant to be, and with enough anchovies to pack a real punch.

Spinach and ricotta panzerotti, in a mushroom and gorgonzola sauce.

This time, I tried the spinach and ricotta panzerotti, with sauce alla chef (R125). I was a bit nervous about the mixture of mushrooms, cream and gorgonzola ‒ it sounded too much like a sinus headache on a plate ‒ but, while super rich, it worked really well with the tasty veg pasta pockets cooked a perfect al dente. I was impressed.

Stuffed to the gills, I still couldn't resist a little “pick me up” and enjoyed a decent tiramisu (R65) served in a martini glass, with a good shot of double espresso. One interesting item that one doesn’t see often on Durban dessert menus is Zuppa Inglesi ‒ translated as English soup, which is how the Italians view a good old fashioned trifle. I assume it will be as boozy as the tiramisu and will try it next time.

Food: 4

Service: 4

Ambience: 4

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